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I used this brown Elmer's glue for the first time when assembling a small speaker cabinet for a mini-amp. My intent was to assemble the cabinet with wood screws and glue, wait for the glue to set and then remove the screws so dowels could be inserted. The glue worked great! In fact, it worked so well that the screws were almost impossible to remove. It took immense torque with a large screwdriver to remove them from the pine panels... actually if you look at the picture you will see that the 4 screws were sheared off instead of removed! The glue held the threads so tightly that when I tried to back them out, the heads twisted off right at the point where the threads start, leaving about one-half of the screw embedded deep in the wood. Oh well... I don't think I have to worry about the box coming apart!

If you need to glue wood boards together, I highly recommend this type instead of the common yellow glue. I'm sure the wood fibers will rip apart before the glue joint will separate. It is thick like molasses but spreads easily. You cannot clean up with water though; remove it from your hands with acetone or mineral spirits.

This is a shot of the cluttered top of my workbench with several pedals in various stages of construction. The two pedals at the bottom right are Big Cheese clones ready to have the controls added and the final wiring started. The white box in front of the yellow meter contains a dozen prime quality germanium transistors that I just bought for some projects.

This is a prototype of an all-solidstate amp head in the beginning stages of construction. I will pull out the screws on the top side of the cabinet and replace them with dowels once the glue has had time to dry. The aluminum chassis is a tight fit but it will be secured to the wood with a mounting bracket on each side. Here the AMZ lab tech is drilling out the mounting bracket for the chassis.

The AMZ lab techs are hard at work sanding some boxes to be used in making prototypes of a couple of new designs. What they lack in technique, they make up for with enthusiasm!

NEW! My latest project, the G-Spot - "G" is for germanium! This is a not-so-clean boost that can do a really soft overdrive when you dig into the strings. Nothing but that classic germanium grunge! I really like this pedal and the design will be featured in the next issue of my AMZ Projects Newsletter. Here's a shot of it next to the AMZ P-Comp.

Click here to see the inside of the G-Spot.

NEW! The AMZ DuoTone Boost, previously called the Time Warp. The switch selects between "Way Back", an AC30-type treble boost to drive your amp into saturation, and "Far Out" which is the ultimate in clean and transparent! There are no germanium transistors in the Time Warp.
Click here to see another shot.

I've finished tweaking my Lovetone Big Cheese clone and it sounds very nice! I used a pair of toggle switches instead of the rotary as on the original. Click here to see a closeup of my prototype. The Big Cheese is a silicon fuzzface with opamp buffers on the input and output and a tone control for tweaking the sound.

The AMZ Clean Boost - This is prototype of a jfet clean boost pedal that uses a derivative of the mini-booster. Click on the thumbs for larger views...

AMZ Fat Rat - read how I modified a stock ProCo Rat into a flexible distortion machine! Endow the buzzy Rat with the smooth distortion characteristics of the Fat Gnat.

This is a custom enclosure that I made from a finished oak plank from Lowe's and some diamondplate cut to form a top. It is the same size as the classic Big Muff box as you can see from the other photo. I plan on using it for a special auto-filter that I'm designing.

The AMZ CD-ROM has been updated again! It now includes all of the info currently available online here at AMZ in addition to the highly informative articles and designs it has always featured. Read more...

Here is a closeup of the AMZ P-Comp prototype which was featured in the Compression Shootout article. It is an opto-compressor that has a very clean and transparent sound with a smooth compression response. The enclosure is a Raco electrical box for which I cut a piece of diamondplate to use as a top since my local hardware store was out of blank covers. If you look closely at the pictures in the article mentioned above, you'll see that I added decals as labels for the controls and jacks before sending it out for review.

This is the YAFF prototype next to a TS-9 for size comparison. The enclosure is a 4" plastic pipe cap that came from Lowe's and makes a really nice box for a fuzzface type effect.

A look under the hood of the Octavius 2 prototype, which is a special octave doubler with a nice sound. It uses a new type of doubling mechanism that I created based on jfets. The Octavius 1 was a mini-booster doubler circuit driven by an opamp.

My studio floor is littered with pedals, prototypes and a variety of projects under test. What a mess! There's a Les Paul on this side of the rack on the floor and my Epiphone Casino just beyond.

Below is a collection of pedals that I have made... some are old and some are fairly recent. The preamp at the bottom left is the Dual Booster prototype that has seen a lot of use as a microphone preamp driving the soundcard in a computer. It was used to record voiceover that ended up in a TV commercial playing in 40 cities across the USA.

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